|
|
|
|
Scout Gear Tips & InformationGear Tips (top)Parents of new scouts will commonly ask about what gear they should purchase for their boys as they begin their camping adventures with the troop. Then later, as the boys become High Adventure age and begin to join in on the backpacking, canoeing & climbing adventures, they will want to know what's the best gear for them. So I'm adding a page about gear as a reference for Scouts. It will not be a complete or final say in what one should buy. Rather, it's meant as a guide where you can find advice from the leaders and perhaps older Scouts on what works for them. So products listed here are not "endorsements" or "required," just what works from our experience and your experience, needs or comfort may be different. Remember that Scouts can use the fundraising monies that go into their Scout Account to pay for camping gear. Save the receipt and turn into the Treasurer for reimbursement. And anyone that would like to like to submit a gear tip of information for this page, even just a small tip, please forward them to the webmaster. Thanks
Compasses (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie VannersonI pulled together a short list of suitable types for you to consider if you need to buy one or are considering upgrading your gear. I used pricing and links to Campmor as a guide but you can purchase them from most any outdoor retailer or website. Also, I did not cover every possible brand or style, just a few common ones to give you some idea on what's available on the market today. I've sorted them into three price ranges; Inexpensive (under $25), Midrange ($25-$50) and Advanced ($50-$100). I also added a section for other compass related items All of these models are base plate compasses, meaning they feature a clear rectangular plastic base that has a direction of travel arrow, map scales and a turning compass bezel to take directional readings in 2 degree increments. I would require that any compass a Scout purchases have these features. Stay away from compasses with small square or no base plates and those with colored base plates. The small square plates are difficult to use to take bearing readings for map and compass activities, and the colored plates can make it difficult to read map features when the compass is set on to your map. Also stay away from compasses that have 5 degree bearing readings as they'll usually result in higher errors when taking bearings. The ability to adjust magnetic declination is a nice feature that I highly recommend, but is usually found only in moderately priced compasses, and it's not need to pass any of the requirement, so it's an optional feature. Likewise, compasses with slotted mirror sightings are more accurate than standard base plate compasses, but usually cost a bit more. However, the Silva Trekker Type 20 is one such compasses that costs approx. $20. But I have never seen one in person so I cannot personally vouch for it. But seeing that it's only $4 more than the standard base plate model I would say that it's worth the few extra bucks. Inexpensive Compasses (under $25) Silva Trekker™ Type 20 Compass Midrange Compasses ($25-$50) Silva Ranger™ Type 515CL Compass Advanced Compasses ($50-$100) Other Related Items Silva Map Measure
Day Packs (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie VannersonDay packs are a very useful piece of gear for Scouts. Use them to stash all of your advancement material, Scout handbook, pens and other supplies and you will always be prepared at troop meetings. At summer camp use them to carry what you need for your morning or afternoon programs so you don't have to make return trips to the campsite between sessions. And take a day pack or fanny pack on your hikes and you will always be prepared with your water, first aid kit, rain gear and snacks! Uses Troop Meetings I recommend all Scouts have a day pack or book bag for troop meetings. You can carry your Scout Handbook, Merit Badge pamphlets & written work, troop and patrol rosters, water bottle, pocket knife, Tote 'N Chit card, etc. Put your neckerchief and slide in the bag at the end of the meeting and you'll never have to look for a lost neckerchief slide again. Older Scouts can use it to hold teaching aid for helping new Scouts. For example, you can carry your compass, distance calculator and Township Orienteering Course sheet and you'll always be ready to teach orienteering. Add map symbol flash cards and you can help Scouts learn how to read a map. A short length of rope and a knot guide and you can demonstrate any knot. A songbook and you can prepare a campfire program (Hint: Communication Merit Badge Requirement). Basically, it becomes your Scout kit with everything you need to be prepared for troop meetings. Summer Camp Day packs are indispensable for summer camp. Besides your merit badge materials, water bottle and first aid kit, you can also carry you swimsuit and towel with you in case your program schedule doesn’t give you enough time to return to your site to change. Remember to stow them in the troop trailer at night if you have snacks in them so no critters like chipmunks and raccoon or skunks visit you at night in your tent. Short Hikes Small packs are great for day hikes or short side hikes on a longer trek. You should always carry some basic gear when you are on the trail, even if it’s a short five-mile hike for rank advancement. You never know when you might need your rain gear or jacket. Or maybe your buddy has a hot spot on his foot that’s starting to become a blister. Out comes your first aid kit and you can quickly cut out a mole skin donut and save the day! You can also carry your Personal Survival Kit just in case you inadvertently loose the trail and end up needing to hunker down for a few hours or even overnight until your rescuers find you. Types Book Bags Almost everyone has an old book bag from school they don’t use. So recycle it and make it your Scout Pack. These are perfect for troop meetings as there are usually pockets for small gear like your pocket knife or compass or change for the pop machine. And some have internal dividers for your merit badge paper work and built in pen holders. You can dress it up a bit to make it an official Scout Pack by sewing on some of your camporee and summer camp patches on the outside. You can also use them for summer camp or day hikes, although you may eventually want to upgrade later on and add a Day Pack or Fanny Pack to your gear for camping as they are usually better suited for the outdoors. Daypacks Daypacks are small backpacks. They are specifically designed for the outdoors and come in a wide variety of styles, sizes and features. Larger ones can do double duty and serve as a weekend pack. They don’t have pockets for pencils or notebooks, but do have side pockets for gear, or mesh pockets for Nalgene water bottles. Some may have an internal pouch for hydration bladders. Look for an exit hole near the top with a flap for your hose. Daypacks have better shoulder straps than book bags. The better ones will have a hip belt to help carry the load on you hips instead of your shoulders and back, and a sternum strap accross you chest keep the shoulder straps closer together near your center of gravity. Other nice features include elastic string for holding your fleece or rain coat on the face for easy access. Tabs and loops are useful for attaching carabineers. But don’t hang large objects as the back-and-forth swaying actually makes it harder for you to walk. Here are a couple of links where you can find a wide assortment of day packs
A new trend are small day packs that are lightweight and stuff into a package the size of a small softball (Kiva Key Chain Pack). They don’t take up much space or add much weight and can open up to be a small pack with regular shoulder straps. These are more comfortable to wear that the pack hood fanny packs. Another new style sold by REI (REI Flash UL Pack) can turn inside out and double as a stuff sack for your gear. Many backpackers use stuff sacks for their gear anyway so you only have to carry one item instead of two. Fanny Packs Fanny packs are useful for day hikes. You can find some that are large enough to hold you day hike supplies and a small lunch or trail snack. Some have one or two side pockets to hold your water bottle. They are often more comfortable than a day pack. Day packs against your back on a hot day will cause you back to sweat. Fanny packs are usually cooler. You can buy really big fanny packs (usually called lumbar packs) that rival day packs in carrying capacity. Some of these are sold with a harness, much like suspenders, to transfer some of the load to your shoulders for comfort. A few, like the Fieldline 2-in-1 Combo Backpack, are both a daypack and fanny pack attached as one. You can keep them together as a single unit, or detach them to use the daypack or fanny pack separately. This would be nice for short weekend campouts. Many backpacking packs have detachable hoods with a waist belt that double as a fanny pack. These are really convenient if you plan on taking short side hikes and don’t want to carry your full pack. You simply drop you pack and detach the hood and off you go. I usually store my rain gear in the hood anyways so it’s easy to get out on the trail if the weather turns bad. They are usually not as comfortable as a regular fanny pack but do serve the purpose without having to carry an additional bag on the trail. Summary Start out with an old book bag as a Scout Pack for troop meetings. You will be surprised how much time it saves you getting ready for the meetings. And you are more likely to have the material you need when you need them. No more “I forgot it at home.” Then look around and see what other are using for weekend trips and hikes. Ask them what features theirs has and what they like about it, and what they don’t like about it. Once you’ve settled on the type and style you want, start watch the sales. Remember, a Scout is thrifty. Most stores and on-line outdoor retailers have sales, especially at the end of the camping season when they are clearing out last years models. You can save a lot of money shopping this way and still get good quality gear that will last many years. Finally, when you start to go backpacking, look for a pack with a detachable hood for a fanny pack or the collapsing daypack
Overshoes (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie VannersonOvershoes are hard-soled "booties" that you wear over your normal boots or shoes, hence the name "overshoes." They come in a variety of styles depending upon how you intend to use them. There are models for normal wear, some for hiking or winter sports, some have cleats for icy surfaces, and still others are designed for wading in shallow water. They are similar in concept to the familiar Totes rubber boots that you can pull over your steer shoes, but with better protection and more versatility Overshoes can provide extra warmth in cold weather. You can purchase insulated or non-insulated models. The regular non-insulated style still provide an extra 20-degrees of warmth and the insulated models up to 40-degrees of added warmth. This basically means that your feet will be comfortable at twenty or forth degrees colder than they would be without the overshoe. So if you feet are comfortable in your shoes a 45 degrees, the annulated overshoe will provide the same level of comfort at 25 degrees and the insulated at 5 degrees.
I think overshoes may a nice piece of gear to own for change of season camping. The more durable models may even be a good replacement for winter boots, allowing you to wear your comfortable summer boots all season long. They are comfortable, light and easy to put on. I will use my overshoes on more outings this season and test them in more winter weather camping and will then update this review. Rain Gear (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie VannersonProper rain gear can turn a cold, wet miserable outing into an enjoyable trip. Not that anyone hopes for rain, but if it must rain you might as well have the correct gear both comfortable and safe. Most incoming scouts are prepared for campout with a vinyl poncho. Ponchos may be acceptable for short periods of time but they are not the best choice for camping. A good set of breathable rain pants and coat are the ideal combination for any kind of weather that may come. Breathable fabrics are the key to comfort and safety. Modern fabrics are constructed of multiple layers of high tech materials with tiny pores. These pores are large enough to let water vapor molecules pass outward but way too small to let large water droplets pass in. So the water vapor created by your body's perspiration escapes but the large rain drops bounce off, keeping you dry and comfy. The fabric also prevents wind from penetrating so a rain suit can double as outer layer to keep warm even when it's not raining. I did this several times up in the mountains at Philmont. Having a rain suit that can serve both purposes, protection from rain and and outer layer for warmth is what I call double dipping. That's when an item in your pack serves more than one purpose. Double dipping saves space and weight from your pack, and it's frugal as you spend less money buying single use items. I own a set of Frogg Toggs. They are a light-weight, relatively inexpensive suit that serve me well for backpacking. But the material may not be as durable as the ones listed below, although mine have held up well since 2004 with no problems, and small tears can be repaired with the ubiquitous duct tape. They no longer offer the style I own, but the ProAction suit is similar. The retail price is comparable to the Red Ledge gear below, but I emailed them for a sale list of their discontinued items and I think I got my suit for under $50. Of course your mileage may vary. Moderately Priced Example
($50 - $100) Moderately Expensive Example
($100 - $150) Expensive Example
($150 - $200) Many Philmont regulars swear by the Marmot PreCip, while many others love Red Ledge. As with many gear selections, it comes down to personal preference. So make sure you visit a retailer that offers a variety of products so you can try them on and examine the style and features yourself. Besides weight, other key features to look for are pockets that pass through to your pants pocket and the size rolled up or in a mess stuff sack. An important feature I like on mine is a zipped hem on the pants to allow you to slip them on and off without taking your hiking boots off.
Sleeping Systems (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson(still being written) This section focuses primarily on selecting and using sleeping gear for High Adventure outings, especially backpacking. However, it can also be useful for younger scouts just starting their Scout camping experience as many of the principals are the same except the need for compact size and low weight, features that increase the cost of the gear. So some of the features of a good backpacking sleep system and techniques apply to car camping sleep systems too, just look for less expensive products. Also, everyone sleeps differently. Some people sleep cold, like me, while others sleep hot and lie on top of their bags the very same nights I'm zipped up tight inside mine. Or some people can sleep on the bare minimum padding, while others insist on a thick pad. You can only learn from experience what works for you, but these tips and ideas may help you select your gear purchases wisely based on what you already know about yourself. We often use the term "sleep system" because comfort and safety is provided by a combination of items used in concert depending on the season or weather, location and personal preferences. Here are the basic parts of a sleep system:
Sleeping Bag (back)The foundation of your sleeping system is you bag. For High Adventure you need to invest in a good mummy bag. I would even suggest that new scouts avoid rectangular bags and look at inexpensive mummy bags for their first sleeping bag. As avoid down as it requires extra care to maintain and losses its insulation value if it gets wet, a potentially dangerous situation that can lead to hyperthermia. Synthetic bags will retain their insulation qualities when damp or wet and are easier to dry and maintain. Ground Pad (back)Open cell vs. closed cell Liner (back)Sleeping bag liners are like socks for you bag. The most common are made of silk or fleece. They serve two purposes.
Liners provide warmth by adding more material and by creating an extra insulation layer of air between the bag and the liner. Some people use silk all year round. In winter it adds warmth and in the summer it is cool to the touch. You can also use it on top of your bag on hot summer nights like a sheet. Fleece is more suited for colder camping. In the fall or spring you can use it as a stand-alone bag or on top of your bag if it's not to cold. In the winter you can add it inside your bag to provide added warmth. Fleece is heavier and bulkier than silk so it's not as popular with backpackers who are forever looking for ways to cut down on weight. Sleeping Clothes (back)Never wear the clothes you wore all day in your sleeping bag. Always change into dry sleeping clothes. Old clothes are damp from perspiration even when the temperature is comfortable and you don't recall sweating. Perspiration is a natural process that happens continually regardless of the weather. In the winter, dampness means cold. Moisture in your sleeping bag reduces the insulation value and creates a danger for hyperthermia. Or even just a cold miserable restless night. The concern isn't always about temperature, especially in the heat of summer. But the clothes you wore during the day also contain dirt and grime. Dirt buildup can also reduce the insulation value and make you wash the bag more frequently. And machine washing eventually destroys the loft, the air spaced between the insulation material, thereby reducing the insulation value and shortening the life of the bag. Wearing clean clothes to bed keeps you warmer and the bag cleaner. Many folks also use a sleeping bag liner of either silk or fleece, depending upon the outside temperature and your sleeping preference (sleep hot vs. sleep cold). See the Liners section for more information. shorts, socks & hat (liner socks) Polypro long underwear
Toiletries (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson"A Scout is Clean!" It's important to maintain hygiene while camping. I know that we always have that campfire smell on us when we come home. But making sure you take time to wash up and brush your teeth is not only polite, it's health. Proper hygiene is part of proper sanitation which helps prevent the spread of diseases. This is critical while camping. You don't want to get sick on the trail. Reports show that most infections on camping trips from Giardia or cryptosporidium are not from contaminated water but rather from campers practicing poor hygiene. Meaning they didn't wash their hands properly. But you don't have to pack your entire bathroom on a camping trip. There are a few essentials and few nifty pieces of gear that make it easy to follow the eleventh point of the Scout Law Campsuds
Boudreaux's Butt Paste I know this is a sensitive subject, but nothing can ruin an outing quicker than a back case of "hiker's" rash. Some folks will pack a little A+D ointment, others use Vaseline or Desitin, but Boudreaux's product is superior in my book. It's not as greasy and has very little odor... and it works! The second link below is for small individual packets from a company called Minimus.biz. It's the perfect size to carry on the trail. (Check out their other items too)
There's also a little write up about this product on our Tips page Toothbrush Troop Meetings Brushing is important all the time but especially on campouts. or normal trips the patrols usually select menu items that have higher sugar content then one would normally eat at home. And on high adventure trips you purposely chose food with lots of sugar for extra energy. Not to much difference for regular camping trips. If you are car camping, getting a plastic carrying tube keeps it clean and keeps everything else clean in your toiletry bag. Pick up some sample sized toothpaste and you're ready to go. You can get one of the traveling toothbrushes for your camping gear. That will save some space. There's also a new product called the Toob that looks nifty. It has a reusable toothpaste tube that stores in the handle. The tube screws onto your regular toothpaste tube so you save money in the long run as the cost of toothpaste samples, although not terribly expensive, will add up over time.
Trekking Poles (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie VannersonThe first time I read someone recommending trekking poles I was skeptical to say the least. Decent trekking poles start around $75 up to $150. I had already spend quite a bit for the rest of my backpacking gear for Philmont and forking out more dough for a pair of poles seemed liked a luxury. I was wrong. Trekking poles are worth their weight in gold if you are backing. There are several advantages to using trekking poles:
There are various estimates on the reduced stress upon the legs, knees and back but a conservative estimate is 15-25 lbs. per step with an accumulated effect of over 30,000 lbs. per mile! And that number adds up quickly for a 5-10 mile hike. There are some points against using poles:
So trekking poles are not for everyone. Most of the Scouts in our Philmont crew didn't have them and managed quite well. Although one member brought a pair of old ski poles, which provide most of the same benefits, and he found himself loaning one of his poles out to another crew member most of the time. That points out another option, some folks opt for a single pole instead of a pair. My opinion is that if you are planning on doing any serious backpacking, a pair of trekking poles is a "must have" piece of gear. Once you have decided to buy a trekking pole there are many features to choose from. Here are my recommendations based on my experience:
My last comment is that once you get your poles you'll need to learn how to use them properly. Here are two links that offer advise on proper pole usage:
I usually bring my poles with me to most camp out. So ask me to try them out sometime if your curious whether or not you should buy a pair. However, I must warn you that you should not ask me if we are on a hike as I will not give them up! My reply will likely be, "Get your own!" :-)
Winter Gear (back)Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson (please send your comments and personal tips and I will ad them to this page)
This section focuses primarily on selecting and using sleeping gear for High Adventure outings, especially backpacking. However, it can also be useful for younger scouts just starting their Scout camping experience as many of the principals are the same except the need for compact size and low weight, features that increase the cost of the gear. So some of the features of a good backpacking sleep system and techniques apply to car camping sleep systems too, just look for less expensive products. Also, everyone sleeps differently. Some people sleep cold, like me, while others sleep hot. You will learn with experience what works for you. Make sure you read Mr. Guy's handouts before you go on a winter campout.
Coats (back)3-in-1 SystemsThese coats systems are ideal for four season camping. They consist of a waterproof outer shell, usually some sort of nylon, and an inner fleece liner that zips out. So you can wear the outer shell as a light windbreaker/rain coat, the fleece as a cool weather jacket, and combined as a winter coat. This system is an extension of the layering concept to keeping warm and dry in winter camping. You can start with the full system switch to the fleece or shell alone if you start to get too hot. Remember that you still should layer your clothes to as pat of your winter camping dress with synthetic or wool shirts and sweater. (Leave the cotton sweatshirts and hoodies ate home) You'll find them in short jacket length or full length parkas. I like the longer parka length as the bottom overlaps my snow pants to keep snow out and also provides extra warmth to my thighs and rear. Make sure the outer shell is waterproof not water resistant, otherwise it will get wet during a prolonged rain. The better quality coats are usually made of a high thread count, rip-stop nylon. This means that a small tear will not continue the length of the coat if you snag it on a branch. It will get bigger if you do not repair it, but you'll have time to patch it up. You also want to make sure it's a "breathable" material. The gaps or spaces between the threads are small enough to prevent water droplets from penetrating but large enough to let water vapor to pass through. Your body heat turns perspiration into vapor, which is much smaller than rain drops. The vapor passes out through the shell to help keep your body dry and warm. Most offer hoods that can roll up and zip up in a collar pocket, a few offer insulated hoods, although most are not. So you need to include a good warm hat. Other important features include various pockets that are useful for stashing small gear. Look for pockets with zippers to prevent your gear from falling out and make sure you can operate the zippers or flaps with gloves on. Also, you will want a coat with zippered vents under the arms. This lets you open up the coat when you get too hot. You do not want to overheat and sweat in the winter because sweat makes you wet and wet makes you cold. The inner liner should be a light to moderate weight synthetic fleece. No cotton. Cotton looses its insulation ability when wet. Synthetic materials retain insulation properties when wet. Not nearly as well as when dry. So you still need to be careful to keep dry and seek shelter if you get real wet to avoid hyperthermia. Many modern synthetics are "wicking." The fibers are designed to carry moisture from your body through the material to the outside surface. Your body heat turns the moisture to vapor which is then passed through the breathable outer shell, or evaporates if you only wearing the fleece. This keeps water away from your body.
Boots (back)Head Gear (back)4-in-1 HoodsSynthetic 4-in-1 hoods are a modern version of the balaclava and much more flexible. They are like a hood that has been cut off that you can wear on its own. Here are the four configurations:
This flexibility is a great feature as you are prepared for all sorts of conditions with one piece of gear. You can start of wearing it as a hood. Then later as you exert and start to get too hot, you can pull your head through and turn it into a neck scrunch. This exposes the top of your head to let you cool off while still keeping your shoulders protected, then pull it back up when you start to get cold again. Later in the day as the sun fades and the temperature drops you can pull the bottom up over your mouth and nose like a scarf. Like all winter gear you want to stay away from cotton. So stick with 100% polyester fleece. Most models have toggle cords to adjust the face opening or elastic knit to close around the neck opening. You can buy high quality moisture wicking models at most sporting goods stores. But you can also find simple synthetic versions at Wal-Mart, Kohl's and similar stores for about $10. Remember a Scout is thrifty.
BalaclavasBalaclavas are a full head cover with an opening for your face. Some models have material that continues from your neck down over your shoulders (these are called gaiters). These are very good for very cold conditions as they provide full protection of your head and help prevent heat loss from your upper torso through the neck opening on your coat. I have two types. I have a thin one that is part of my long long underwear. And I have a heavy military surplus model. I find that I don't usually wear them during the day as I prefer the flexibility of the 4-in-1 hoods. If we were on an extremely cold campout I think I would use the thinner one if I knew the temperature was not going to warm up at all during the day. I use mine as part of my sleep wear. You loose most of your body heat in your sleeping bag at two places. First is from contact with the ground, which is why you want insulation under your bag. And second is through your head. I used to wear a simple watch cap to bed on cold nights. But it always fell off during the night. Then I found a Peruvian style snowboarder cap on sale for $9 at Wal-Mart (best sales are at the end of the season). It has ear flaps and an elastic chin cord. I use this in the early spring or late fall. But in real cold weather I use a balaclava On REAL cold nights, I'll use the heavy military surplus model. The gaiter over the shoulder helps prevent loss of of body heat through the sleeping bag opening. It's also important to remember to keep your day clothes and sleep clothes separate. So don't use your daytime head gear at night (unless you absolutely must). Your daytime gear will be damp from your perspiration and will not keep you as warm as dry gear. Also, changing at night lets your daytime gear dry out while you sleep. Again, look at the label and stay away from cotton or cotton blends. These will get damp or even wet from your sweat. And from your breath if you pull the the bottom of the face opening up over your mouth.
Gloves (back)I use a two part layering system for winter camping; a pair of thin to medium weight liner gloves and a nice heavy over mitten. I start with a pair of synthetic liner gloves. You can buy special liner gloves at a camping supply store. Good ones will be synthetic with moisture wicking properties and a rubberized surface for your palm and fingers that aid in gripping objects. But a Scout is thrifty so you can also purchase inexpensive gloves at the store for a few bucks. Just make sure they have no cotton. The over mittens should be warm and comfortable with enough room to allow you to insert your hand while wearing the liner glove. The usefulness of a two-part system is that you get the warmth benefit of the mitten and the dexterity of a glove for tasks. Remove the mitten whenever you need the use of your fingers. the glove will help protect your skin from the cold while letting you handle most tasks where you need your fingers. Gloves alone provide too much surface area and are not as effective in keeping your hands warm. Mittens are warmer but without the liner glove your fingers are exposed to the frigid air if you need to use your hands for small tasks. It's also a good tip to run a string through your sleeves and each arm to hook onto you mittens. Then when you remove them to work with your hands they won't go far when you need to put them back on. Use paracord instead of string and you'll have several feet of survival rope if needed.
This page last updated on 07/02/2010 11:48 AM |
Campsuds
is a multipurpose bio-degradable soap that should be in everyone's toiletry bag.
It can be used for cleaning your skin, hair, dishes and even clothes. It works
in cold and salty water as well so it is useful on al type of campouts from
local forest preserves to high adventure bases like Philmont, Northern Tier and
Sea Base. It quickly breaks down which makes it ecologically friendly. A
perfect product all around. 
