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Scout Gear Tips & Information

Gear Tips (top)

Parents of new scouts will commonly ask about what gear they should purchase for their boys as they begin their camping adventures with the troop.  Then later, as the boys become High Adventure age and begin to join in on the backpacking, canoeing & climbing adventures, they will want to know what's the best gear for them. So I'm adding a page about gear as a reference for Scouts. It will not be a complete or final say in what one should buy.  Rather, it's meant as a guide where you can find advice from the leaders and perhaps older Scouts on what works for them. So products listed here are not "endorsements" or "required," just what works from our experience and your experience, needs or comfort may be different.

Remember that Scouts can use the fundraising monies that go into their Scout Account to pay for camping gear. Save the receipt and turn into the Treasurer for reimbursement. And anyone that would like to like to submit a gear tip of information for this page, even just a small tip, please forward them to the webmaster.  Thanks

bulletCompasses
bulletDay Packs  new.gif (2179 bytes)
bulletOvershoes
bulletRain Gear
bulletSleeping Systems
bulletTrekking Poles

Compasses (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

I pulled together a short list of suitable types for you to consider if you need to buy one or are considering upgrading your gear. I used pricing and links to Campmor as a guide but you can purchase them from most any outdoor retailer or website. Also, I did not cover every possible brand or style, just a few common ones to give you some idea on what's available on the market today. I've sorted them into three price ranges; Inexpensive (under $25), Midrange ($25-$50) and Advanced ($50-$100).  I also added a section for other compass related items

All of these models are base plate compasses, meaning they feature a clear rectangular plastic base that has a direction of travel arrow, map scales and a turning compass bezel to take directional readings in 2 degree increments. I would require that any compass a Scout purchases have these features. Stay away from compasses with small square or no base plates and those with colored base plates. The small square plates are difficult to use to take bearing readings for map and compass activities, and the colored plates can make it difficult to read map features when the compass is set on to your map. Also stay away from compasses that have 5 degree bearing readings as they'll usually result in higher errors when taking bearings.

The ability to adjust magnetic declination is a nice feature that I highly recommend, but is usually found only in moderately priced compasses, and it's not need to pass any of the requirement, so it's an optional feature. Likewise, compasses with slotted mirror sightings are more accurate than standard base plate compasses, but usually cost a bit more. However, the Silva Trekker Type 20 is one such compasses that costs approx. $20. But I have never seen one in person so I cannot personally vouch for it. But seeing that it's only $4 more than the standard base plate model I would say that it's worth the few extra bucks.

Inexpensive Compasses (under $25)
Silva Explorer Type 3 Compass
Price:$15.99
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=13867
Simple, basic base plate model suitable for entry level scouts

Silva Trekker™ Type 20 Compass
Price:$19.99
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=13869
Base plate unit with mirror sighting for more accurate readings. Another good entry level compass.

Midrange Compasses ($25-$50)
Brunton 8096 Eclipse GPS Compass
Price:$32.99
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=12317846
Has UTM grid scales which are useful in conjunction with transferring GPS coordinates onto your map. Note that a GPS alone is not usually sufficient for orienteering and Scouts are better served having a compass instead of a GPS. Part of the Brunton needle-less compass line that relies on centering a bubble, a feature that sounds odd but many claim is easier to use in the field than the traditional needled compasses.

Silva Ranger™ Type 515CL Compass
Price:$45.99
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=13870
Base plate unit with mirror sighting and multiple scales. Can be adjusted for magnetic declination and a built in clinometer (measures angle of slope). This is the compass I have and it served me well at Philmont (although my map reading skills could have been much better!) Here in the Midwest, magnetic north and true north are nearly the same. But that's not true in most parts of the US. The declination adjustment allows you to "tune" the north heading to the difference that's referenced on your map, eliminating the need to calculate the difference in your head. I can personally recommend this model for Scouts interested in orienteering or those planning on participating in High Adventure outings outside of the Chicago area. (Also can be used as a basic base plate compass so it will work well with beginners as well.)

Advanced Compasses ($50-$100)
Brunton Eclipse 8099 Compass
Price:$74.95
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=46159
All the bells and whistles! Base plate unit with mirrored sighting, multiple scales, reference cards and one hand operation. Part of the Brunton needle-less compass line that relies on centering a bubble, a feature that sounds odd but many claim is easier to use in the field than the traditional needled compasses.

Other Related Items
Be An Expert With Map and Compass
Price:$17.00
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=46065
I highly recommend this book to anyone interested in take map & compass beyond the basics in the Scout Handbook. I bought it just before I went to Philmont and the stuff I learned from it helped me out immensely. I wish I had read it earlier so I could have made it required reading for the entire crew as I found out that us "car camping flatlanders" from the Midwest don't have the map reading skills we needed for a wilderness hike, especially in the mountains.

Silva Map Measure
Price:$19.99
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=13866
This tool has a small wheel that you trace your path or trail on a map to determine distances on your map. I has multiple scales displayed on the dial to accommodate the most common map types, as well as inches and centimeters so you can calculate your own scale for uncommon maps. I have never used one but have read good reviews from the few that do. I would consider this an advanced hiker/backpacker tool for those hiking on wilderness trails where knowing your exact location may be critical.  This would have been a nice addition to my gear for Philmont as there were times we were not quite clear how far we hiked and exactly how much further we had to go.

Day Packs (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

Day packs are a very useful piece of gear for Scouts. Use them to stash all of your advancement material, Scout handbook, pens and other supplies and you will always be prepared at troop meetings. At summer camp use them to carry what you need for your morning or afternoon programs so you don't have to make return trips to the campsite between sessions. And take a day pack or fanny pack on your hikes and you will always be prepared with your water, first aid kit, rain gear and snacks!

Uses

Troop Meetings

I recommend all Scouts have a day pack or book bag for troop meetings. You can carry your Scout Handbook, Merit Badge pamphlets & written work, troop and patrol rosters, water bottle, pocket knife, Tote 'N Chit card, etc. Put your neckerchief and slide in the bag at the end of the meeting and you'll never have to look for a lost neckerchief slide again. Older Scouts can use it to hold teaching aid for helping new Scouts. For example, you can carry your compass, distance calculator and Township Orienteering Course sheet and you'll always be ready to teach orienteering.  Add map symbol flash cards and you can help Scouts learn how to read a map.  A short length of rope and a knot guide and you can demonstrate any knot. A songbook and you can prepare a campfire program (Hint: Communication Merit Badge Requirement). Basically, it becomes your Scout kit with everything you need to be prepared for troop meetings.

Summer Camp

Day packs are indispensable for summer camp. Besides your merit badge materials, water bottle and first aid kit, you can also carry you swimsuit and towel with you in case your program schedule doesn’t give you enough time to return to your site to change. Remember to stow them in the troop trailer at night if you have snacks in them so no critters like chipmunks and raccoon or skunks visit you at night in your tent.

Short Hikes

Small packs are great for day hikes or short side hikes on a longer trek. You should always carry some basic gear when you are on the trail, even if it’s a short five-mile hike for rank advancement. You never know when you might need your rain gear or jacket. Or maybe your buddy has a hot spot on his foot that’s starting to become a blister. Out comes your first aid kit and you can quickly cut out a mole skin donut and save the day! You can also carry your Personal Survival Kit just in case you inadvertently loose the trail and end up needing to hunker down for a few hours or even overnight until your rescuers find you.

Types

Book Bags

Almost everyone has an old book bag from school they don’t use. So recycle it and make it your Scout Pack. These are perfect for troop meetings as there are usually pockets for small gear like your pocket knife or compass or change for the pop machine. And some have internal dividers for your merit badge paper work and built in pen holders. You can dress it up a bit to make it an official Scout Pack by sewing on some of your camporee and summer camp patches on the outside. You can also use them for summer camp or day hikes, although you may eventually want to upgrade later on and add a Day Pack or Fanny Pack to your gear for camping as they are usually better suited for the outdoors.

Daypacks

Daypacks are small backpacks. They are specifically designed for the outdoors and come in a wide variety of styles, sizes and features. Larger ones can do double duty and serve as a weekend pack. They don’t have pockets for pencils or notebooks, but do have side pockets for gear, or mesh pockets for Nalgene water bottles. Some may have an internal pouch for hydration bladders. Look for an exit hole near the top with a flap for your hose. Daypacks have better shoulder straps than book bags. The better ones will have a hip belt to help carry the load on you hips instead of your shoulders and back, and a sternum strap accross you chest keep the shoulder straps closer together near your center of gravity. Other nice features include elastic string for holding your fleece or rain coat on the face for easy access. Tabs and loops are useful for attaching carabineers. But don’t hang large objects as the back-and-forth swaying actually makes it harder for you to walk. Here are a couple of links where you can find a wide assortment of day packs

bullet Campmor Daypacks
bullet REI Daypacks
bullet Sportsmansguide.com Daypacks
bullet CheeperThanDirt Packs

A new trend are small day packs that are lightweight and stuff into a package the size of a small softball (Kiva Key Chain Pack). They don’t take up much space or add much weight and can open up to be a small pack with regular shoulder straps. These are more comfortable to wear that the pack hood fanny packs. Another new style sold by REI (REI Flash UL Pack) can turn inside out and double as a stuff sack for your gear. Many backpackers use stuff sacks for their gear anyway so you only have to carry one item instead of two.

Fanny Packs

Fanny packs are useful for day hikes. You can find some that are large enough to hold you day hike supplies and a small lunch or trail snack. Some have one or two side pockets to hold your water bottle. They are often more comfortable than a day pack. Day packs against your back on a hot day will cause you back to sweat. Fanny packs are usually cooler. You can buy really big fanny packs (usually called lumbar packs) that rival day packs in carrying capacity. Some of these are sold with a harness, much like suspenders, to transfer some of the load to your shoulders for comfort. A few, like the Fieldline 2-in-1 Combo Backpack, are both a daypack and fanny pack attached as one. You can keep them together as a single unit, or detach them to use the daypack or fanny pack separately.  This would be nice for short weekend campouts.

Many backpacking packs have detachable hoods with a waist belt that double as a fanny pack. These are really convenient if you plan on taking short side hikes and don’t want to carry your full pack. You simply drop you pack and detach the hood and off you go. I usually store my rain gear in the hood anyways so it’s easy to get out on the trail if the weather turns bad. They are usually not as comfortable as a regular fanny pack but do serve the purpose without having to carry an additional bag on the trail.

Summary

Start out with an old book bag as a Scout Pack for troop meetings. You will be surprised how much time it saves you getting ready for the meetings. And you are more likely to have the material you need when you need them. No more “I forgot it at home.” Then look around and see what other are using for weekend trips and hikes. Ask them what features theirs has and what they like about it, and what they don’t like about it. Once you’ve settled on the type and style you want, start watch the sales. Remember, a Scout is thrifty. Most stores and on-line outdoor retailers have sales, especially at the end of the camping season when they are clearing out last years models. You can save a lot of money shopping this way and still get good quality gear that will last many years. Finally, when you start to go backpacking, look for a pack with a detachable hood for a fanny pack or the collapsing daypack

Overshoes (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

Overshoes are hard-soled "booties" that you wear over your normal boots or shoes, hence the name "overshoes." They come in a variety of styles depending upon how you intend to use them. There are models for normal wear, some for hiking or winter sports, some have cleats for icy surfaces, and still others are designed for wading in shallow water.  They are similar in concept to the familiar Totes rubber boots that you can pull over your steer shoes, but with better protection and more versatility

Overshoes can provide extra warmth in cold weather. You can purchase insulated or non-insulated models. The regular non-insulated style still provide an extra 20-degrees of warmth and the insulated models up to 40-degrees of added warmth.  This basically means that your feet will be comfortable at twenty or forth degrees colder than they would be without the overshoe. So if you feet are comfortable in your shoes a 45 degrees, the annulated overshoe will provide the same level of comfort at 25 degrees and the insulated at 5 degrees.

I bought a pair of N.E.O.S (New England Overshoe) Villagers (pictured at left). This is a moderately priced model (approx. $45) that's designed for general wear. I bought them to use during my commute to work so I sized them for fitting over my street shoes but I can still use them over my small hiking boots. So I can bring them to outings in the early spring or late fall when the weather may be unpredictable but not cold or snowy enough for me to wear my heavy winter boots all weekend.  I also bought the matched fancy green foam protective carrying case for an additional $10. It's not necessary but it does provide a waterproof container if I need to pack wet boots in my backpack. That helps keep the water away from other items in your pack (although they should all be packed separately in waterproof containers as well, especially for cold weather camping.)

bulletLight - Avg. wt. 1.6lbs.
bullet100% waterproof up to 10" high - guaranteed.
bulletN.E.O.S all new SuperLite sole feels like wearing nothing on your feet.
bulletDesigned to fit over all types of shoes.
bullet160 denier nylon pack cloth.
bulletDuraflex quick-release buckle.

Some of these feature are not well suited for an outing but work fine on city sidewalks, which is why I selected. They are only 10" high. I would recommend taller overshoes for outdoors so your pants cuffs don't pull out. My dress slacks seem to work their way up while walking.  On an outing that creates a space for body heat to escape and for snow to work in. In snow you would likely wear outer snow pants that would cover the top.  And the soles of the Villager model are fine for city streets but they are not well suited for outdoor usage. There are models with a heavier lug sole pattern that would provide better grip in the snow. 

I think overshoes may a nice piece of gear to own for change of season camping. The more durable models may even be a good replacement for winter boots, allowing you to wear your comfortable summer boots all season long.  They are comfortable, light and easy to put on.

I will use my overshoes on more outings this season and test them in more winter weather camping and will then update this review.

Rain Gear (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

Proper rain gear can turn a cold, wet miserable outing into an enjoyable trip. Not that anyone hopes for rain, but if it must rain you might as well have the correct gear both comfortable and safe. Most incoming scouts are prepared for campout with a vinyl poncho. Ponchos may be acceptable for short periods of time but they are not the best choice for camping. A good set of breathable rain pants and coat are the ideal combination for any kind of weather that may come.

Breathable fabrics are the key to comfort and safety. Modern fabrics are constructed of multiple layers of high tech materials with tiny pores. These pores are large enough to let water vapor molecules pass outward but way too small to let large water droplets pass in. So the water vapor created by your body's perspiration escapes but the large rain drops bounce off, keeping you dry and comfy. The fabric also prevents wind from penetrating so a rain suit can double as outer layer to keep warm even when it's not raining. I did this several times up in the mountains at Philmont. Having a rain suit that can serve both purposes, protection from rain and and outer layer for warmth is what I call double dipping. That's when an item in your pack serves more than one purpose. Double dipping saves space and weight from your pack, and it's frugal as you spend less money buying single use items.

I own a set of Frogg Toggs. They are a light-weight, relatively inexpensive suit that serve me well for backpacking. But the material may not be as durable as the ones listed below, although mine have held up well since 2004 with no problems, and small tears can be repaired with the ubiquitous duct tape.  They no longer offer the style I own, but the ProAction suit is similar. The retail price is comparable to the Red Ledge gear below, but I emailed them for a sale list of their discontinued items and I think I got my suit for under $50.  Of course your mileage may vary.

Moderately Priced Example ($50 - $100)
Red Ledge Thunderlight
Parka - Regular Price:$50.00 - Sale Price:$39.99 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=3192609
Pants - Regular
Price:
$39.00 - Sale Price:$99.99 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=12906862

Moderately Expensive Example ($100 - $150)
Columbia Thunderstorm
Jacket - Regular Price:$90.00 - Sale Price:$59.95 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39276666
Pants - Regular
Price:
$40.00 - Sale Price:$29.95 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=38551217 

Expensive Example ($150 - $200)
Marmot PreCip

Jacket - Regular Price:$99.00 - Sale Price:$59.97 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=2405451
Pants - Regular
Price:
$70.00 - Sale Price:$49.97 (as of 3/5/07)
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39172992

Many Philmont regulars swear by the Marmot PreCip, while many others love Red Ledge. As with many gear selections, it comes down to personal preference. So make sure you visit a retailer that offers a variety of products so you can try them on and examine the style and features yourself.  Besides weight, other key features to look for are pockets that pass through to your pants pocket and the size rolled up or in a mess stuff sack. An important feature I like on mine is a zipped hem on the pants to allow you to slip them on and off without taking your hiking boots off.

Sleeping Systems  (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

(still being written)

This section focuses primarily on selecting and using sleeping gear for High Adventure outings, especially backpacking. However, it can also be useful for younger scouts just starting their Scout camping experience as many of the principals are the same except the need for compact size and low weight, features that increase the cost of the gear. So some of the features of a good backpacking sleep system and techniques apply to car camping sleep systems too, just look for less expensive products. Also, everyone sleeps differently. Some people sleep cold, like me, while others sleep hot and lie on top of their bags the very same nights I'm zipped up tight inside mine.  Or some people can sleep on the bare minimum padding, while others insist on a thick pad. You can only learn from experience what works for you, but these tips and ideas may help you select your gear purchases wisely based on what you already know about yourself.

We often use the term "sleep system" because comfort and safety is provided by a combination of items used in concert depending on the season or weather, location and personal preferences.  Here are the basic parts of a sleep system:

bulletSleeping Bag
bulletGround Pad
bulletLiner
bulletSleeping Clothes

Sleeping Bag (back)

The foundation of your sleeping system is you bag. For High Adventure you need to invest in a good mummy bag. I would even suggest that new scouts avoid rectangular bags and look at inexpensive mummy bags for their first sleeping bag.  As avoid down as it requires extra care to maintain and losses its insulation value if it gets wet, a potentially dangerous situation that can lead to hyperthermia. Synthetic bags will retain their insulation qualities when damp or wet and are easier to dry and maintain.

Ground Pad (back)

Open cell vs. closed cell

Liner (back)

Sleeping bag liners are like socks for you bag. The most common are made of silk or fleece. They serve two purposes.

bulletThey add additional warmth to your sleep system, up to an additional 10 degrees of comfort depending on the liner.
bulletThey provide more flexibility for your sleep system, sometimes even replacing the bag.

Liners provide warmth by adding more material and by creating an extra insulation layer of air between the bag and the liner. Some people use silk all year round. In winter it adds warmth and in the summer it is cool to the touch. You can also use it on top of your bag on hot summer nights like a sheet. Fleece is more suited for colder camping. In the fall or spring you can use it as a stand-alone bag or on top of your bag if it's not to cold. In the winter you can add it inside your bag to provide added warmth. Fleece is heavier and bulkier than silk so it's not as popular with backpackers who are forever looking for ways to cut down on weight.

Sleeping Clothes (back)

Never wear the clothes you wore all day in your sleeping bag. Always change into dry sleeping clothes. Old clothes are damp from perspiration even when the temperature is comfortable and you don't recall sweating. Perspiration is a natural process that happens continually regardless of the weather. In the winter, dampness means cold. Moisture in your sleeping bag reduces the insulation value and creates a danger for hyperthermia. Or even just a cold miserable restless night. The concern isn't always about temperature, especially in the heat of summer. But the clothes you wore during the day also contain dirt and grime. Dirt buildup can also reduce the insulation value and make you wash the bag more frequently. And machine washing eventually destroys the loft, the air spaced between the insulation material, thereby reducing the insulation value and shortening the life of the bag. Wearing clean clothes to bed keeps you warmer and the bag cleaner. Many folks also use a sleeping bag liner of either silk or fleece, depending upon the outside temperature and your sleeping preference (sleep hot vs. sleep cold). See the Liners section for more information.

shorts, socks & hat (liner socks)

Polypro long underwear

Trekking Poles  (back)

Submitted by Mr. Willie Vannerson

The first time I read someone recommending trekking poles I was skeptical to say the least. Decent trekking poles start around $75 up to $150. I had already spend quite a bit for the rest of my backpacking gear for Philmont and forking out more dough for a pair of poles seemed liked a luxury. I was wrong. Trekking poles are worth their weight in gold if you are backing.  There are several advantages to using trekking poles:

  1. Provide balance and support for hiking up and descending slopes, especially steep slopes.
  2. Provide balance while crossing streams on rocks or log bridges
  3. Reduce the impact and fatigue on your legs
  4. Double as dining fly poles reducing crew gear (and weight)

There are various estimates on the reduced stress upon the legs, knees and back but a conservative estimate is 15-25 lbs. per step with an accumulated effect of over 30,000 lbs. per mile! And that number adds up quickly for a 5-10 mile hike. There are some points against using poles:

  1. They are relatively expensive ranking up there with the big three; boots, backpack & sleeping bag.
  2. Requires you to change your step to accommodate the swing of the poles.
  3. Increases arm and chest muscle fatigue as the weight is transferred to those areas.

So trekking poles are not for everyone. Most of the Scouts in our Philmont crew didn't have them and managed quite well. Although one member brought a pair of old ski poles, which provide most of the same benefits, and he found himself loaning one of his poles out to another crew member most of the time. That points out another option, some folks opt for a single pole instead of a pair. My opinion is that if you are planning on doing any serious backpacking, a pair of trekking poles is a "must have" piece of gear.

Once you have decided to buy a trekking pole there are many features to choose from.   Here are my recommendations based on my experience:

  1. Get 3-part telescoping poles that collapse down for easy storage lashed to your pack, even with a pack rain cover on. Two part poles are okay but the cost savings is not that much.
  2. Some folks prefer poles with cork handles, which cost more, but I'm happy with my standard "rubber" handles. Make sure you get ones that are formed to fit a grip and have a wrist strap. Flat grips like those found on hiking staffs will tire your grip and the straps, when worn properly, actually support your weight. If you are using the poles properly, you will hold the pole only slightly with your thumb and forefinger to direct its motion.
  3. Some people spend the extra money for poles with spring shock absorbers. Some reviews say they are helpful, others say they make little difference. The difference is usually in the extra cost. So I'd say go shockless unless you have spare cash to spend.
  4. Most come with carbide tips, which actually have incredible grip. There were several times when my tips held on to the slippery rocks saving me from a "face plant" on the Tooth of Time Ridge.  They usually provide protective rubber tips and detachable baskets. The baskets provide support in boggy or sandy soil where the tips penetrate down. I found the baskets very effective on the sandy hills of Owasippe but unnecessary at Philmont.

My last comment is that once you get your poles you'll need to learn how to use them properly. Here are two links that offer advise on proper pole usage:

bulletPete's Pole Page by Peter Clinch
bulletTrekking Poles, from Bonnie & David Alley

I usually bring my poles with me to most camp out. So ask me to try them out sometime if your curious whether or not you should buy a pair. However, I must warn you that you should not ask me if we are on a hike as I will not give them up! My reply will likely be, "Get your own!"  :-)

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This page last updated on 08/21/2008 09:08 AM